I was going to write something long about the influx of corporate money and mainstream interest in skate, street and menswear meaning there’s more people than ever printing some really uncreative crap onto t-shirts and calling it their “label” and then DJing at some shit club but I decided against it. When skate and “street wear” was in it’s crappy hypercoloured prime in the late 80s/early 90s a certain brand named FUCT came along to subvert an industry that had become a rolling joke (the irony being the brand eventually became a staple for every wannabe revolutionary and ultimately end up being appropriated by the type of person Brunetti hated in the first place). Now looking at what’s going on and who’s involved it’s about time someone took shit back to basics. I’m not necessarily claiming to have any sort of valuable opinion on skating (I don’t skate and will never possess the skills or patience) but here’s a few brands that are doing things right in general.
Brainchild of Alex Olsen Bianca Chandon’s launch was ingenious. Shrouding a brand in mystery is a bit played out but Mr Olsen did it in a creative way, incorporating a call line for a sultry woman who turned out to be the brand’s fictional muse. and on a basic graphical front the name looks cool and the stuff they’re doing is consistent. No big money look books, no super slow-mo Go Pro videos just some basic shit that works. If it was 3 years ago I’d have mentioned Palace but now they’ve well and truly proven their worth. Honorable mentions to Thames and Bronze.
I’m already fanboying out over Carhartt’s top line designed by Luke Meier and made mainly in Italy so I’ll keep it short. I think OAMC will do it tough until it finds a place in the space between high-fashion pretentiousness and workwear utility. Unlike B.Chandon OAMC comes thick with fancy lookbooks and brooding young models, but that’s probably the only place you’re going to see it ’cause nobody you know probably owns anything from them (yet). This brand’s aspirational, it makes you want to get better friends who can afford it so you don’t have to hang with your pleb mates who cop some of that APC x Carhartt shit like it’s something special. I don’t care what anyone else thinks about this brand, I rate it. I probably need to get a higher paying job if I’m going to keep buying it though…
Ok so first off Acronym isn’t exactly a newcomer, with the agency existing since ’94 and the in-house label has been going for over a decade now but they still aren’t getting the necessary props from the general pleb population. Those that know about Acronym, know. What I do feel has worked to Acronym’s advantage is the advent of brands doing their “technical” outerwear that consists of zips and a Goretex membrane charging amounts that used to make Acronym seem oh-so-unreachable. Truth is until you rip off the shopping-list-long label of patents on an Acronym jacket and see the tech in one of these in person you don’t know what real technical outerwear is. Errolson will continue to wear the brand better than any mere mortal but we can pretend we’re just as cool and continue to shoot out iphones from our sleeves magically at parties. I doubt Acronym gives two shits about how popular they are with the general public anyway, which makes it even better.